How to Choose Your Camping HammockThe No‑Fluff Field Guide
Skip the fluff and get straight to what matters: comfort, durability, and real-world performance. This is your complete guide to choosing the perfect camping hammock.
TL;DR Chooser (60 seconds)
You want all‑night comfort? Get an 11‑foot gathered‑end hammock with an integrated bug net and tree‑friendly straps.
You're tall (≈6'2"+) or a side‑sleeper? Favor wider/"double" bodies or a bridge hammock if you need the flattest lay.
Ounce‑counter? Ultralight fabrics like Cloud 71 exist—but they demand extra care and have lower weight ratings. Choose wisely.
Cold nights? Pads work, but underquilts are comfier and seal drafts better.
Buggy seasons? Treat integrated net as non‑negotiable.
Reality check: The very lightest tents still beat the very lightest hammock systems on grams. Hammocks win on sleep quality and site flexibility, not raw weight.
Want skimmable model picks by use‑case? Head to /best-hammocks/ — that's our buying‑guide hub.
The Big Decisions (with strong opinions)
1) Comfort first: size & shape
Length: For most people, 11 ft is the sweet spot. That length makes it easier to lie diagonally for a flatter spine. If you're over ~6'2" or broad‑shouldered, 11 ft (or an 11‑ft "wide") gives you room to breathe.
Width: "Single" ≈ narrower, lighter; "Double" ≈ more fabric to get that flatter diagonal with less shoulder squeeze. You're sleeping solo anyway—a double can still be the comfiest choice.
Bridge vs gathered‑end:
- Gathered‑end (most common): light, compact, simple; learn the diagonal lay.
- Bridge: flattest lay (back/side/stomach), but heavier and needs a bigger tarp footprint. Better for short trips or if your back demands flat.
Ben's stance: If you're new, start with an 11‑ft gathered‑end and learn the diagonal lay. You can always graduate to a bridge once you know your preferences.
2) Fabric & layers: durability vs grams
Standard ripstop nylon (or poly): Great balance of comfort, strength, and cost.
Ultralight monofilaments (e.g., Cloud 71): Ridiculously light, rated ~200 lb, and the vendor literally says to treat it with care. Translation: brilliant for very light, very careful users; not a forever fabric.
Double‑layer bodies: Add bite‑through protection, raise capacity, and hold a pad in place—at the cost of ounces.
Ben's stance: Don't let UL fabric be the tail that wags the dog. If you're near the rating or rough on gear, pick a beefier single layer or go double‑layer.
3) Bug & weather: bring your roof and screens
Integrated bug net = my default for 3‑season camping. It zips shut, seals clean, and you won't "forget" it at home.
Removable nets are great if you have true shoulder seasons with zero bugs.
Tarps: Silpoly does better in rain‑sag than silnylon; DCF is amazing (and $$$). Big storms? Pitch low and close the doors.
Ben's stance: If it buzzes, you need a net. If it can rain, you need a real tarp, not a bandana on a string.
4) Suspension: keep trees happy, keep setup simple
Wide tree straps (≈1″+) protect bark.
Daisy‑chain straps = dead‑simple. Whoopie slings = ultralight, more fiddle.
Structural ridgeline makes your sag consistent; aim seat height ~18 in, with straps near a 30° angle. (Start here, tweak to taste.)
Ben's stance: I love simple, proven hardware. Speed beats clever when a squall is inbound.
5) Insulation: underquilt > pad (most of the time)
A pad can work, especially in a double‑layer. But pads fight curves, slide around, and create shoulder gaps.
An underquilt hugs the hammock and stops convective heat loss. If you camp below ~70°F at night, an UQ is the better long‑term move.
Ben's stance: If budget is tight, start with your pad. As soon as you can, upgrade to an underquilt—you'll never look back.
6) Weight & reality checks
The lightest tent setups are usually lighter than fully‑featured hammock systems (hammock + straps + net + tarp + quilts).
We don't hammock to win spreadsheets—we hammock to sleep like a rock and hang where tents can't.
Ben's stance: Optimize within reason. Don't cut comfort to chase two ounces.
"If you're buying today…" (examples that match the choices)
Below are agnostic decision paths with Amazon examples where it makes sense. If a cottage legend isn't on Amazon, I'll say so—and point you to the maker.
A) One‑and‑done, all‑in‑one shelter (integrated net, ready for bugs)
Kammok Mantis (All‑Seasons)
Full hammock‑tent system with integrated net and fly; a clean, backpackable starter package.
Check price on AmazonENO JungleNest
Integrated net + spreader at the head for interior space; pairs well with a mid‑size tarp.
Check price on AmazonSetup sanity check (print‑worthy)
- • Trees: healthy, 6″+ diameter, no widowmakers overhead.
- • Straps at shoulder height, angle near 30°.
- • Seat ~18″ off the ground when you're in it.
- • Start with a ridgeline (≈ 83% of hammock length) for repeatable sag.
- • In cold: block wind with tarp doors and snug your underquilt to eliminate gaps.
Common rookie traps (and the fix)
- • Tight‑rope hang ("flatter" myth): Over‑tightening increases pressure and discomfort. Loosen to 30°.
- • Too‑short hammock: If you're cramped or fighting banana‑back, move to 11 ft and add width.
- • Pad slip & cold shoulders: Double‑layer helps, but the real fix is an underquilt.
- • Tiny tarp in big weather: Go one size bigger than you think you need.
Final word from Ben
Pick the right size, protect the trees, hang at 30°, and bring a real tarp + underquilt when the weather dips. Do that, and you'll sleep better in the backcountry than you do at home.
Then jump over to /best-hammocks/ for current picks when you're ready to buy.
Hang loose—just not too tight.
Quick Navigation
Ben Hammockin
Hammock Expert
Ben has been hammock camping for over a decade, testing gear in conditions from desert heat to mountain snow. His no-nonsense approach focuses on what actually works in the field.